Have your Cocktails + Keep your Radiance, too!

  As the holiday season has quickly descended upon us, the endless party circuit stream has, or is certainly soon to, take its toll.  Radiant skin is replaced by dull, drab looking skin, dark circles are complimented by bloodshot eyes, and instead of resting and becoming restored, we put on yet another cocktail dress, add some eyeliner and brightening foundation and we're off to the next fete! 
  Well, here's a little help from our friends over at Kiehl's.  Their Midnight Recovery Concentrate is absolutely fantastic for restoring the radiance, moisture, and suppleness of over-worked, under paid skin that is often neglected during the holidays.
  The main ingredient in this serum is squalane, a powerful antioxidant that is derived from the olive.  Squalane is a natural compound found in our sebaceous glands and acts as a lubricant, maintaining the suppleness of the skin and also helping to deactivate free radicals.  Moreover, squalane is thought to help diminish age spots and fine lines, as well as increase cell turnover (similar to Retinol/Vitamin A).  It's a great moisturizer that is colourless, odourless, has anti-bacterial properties and is very bio-compatible. 
  Other fabulous ingredients in this restorative serum are lavender, which helps to ease inflammation and promote a more even complexion, and evening primrose oil, which helps to repair the skin's barrier and is also rich in the moisturizing omega 6 fatty acids.  This product is also 99.8% naturally derived and is free of parabens!
  So enjoy your cocktails and late-night parties without the dreadful complexion-diminishing effects.  See you on the dance floor!



More info on the Kiehl's website

Let there be GLITTER!

  Continuing with the holiday sparkle trend (and personal obsession) is this tres exclusive, limited edition glimmering hair spray.  ALTERNA Caviar Glitterati Shimmer Sparkling Shine Spray (now that is a great example of alliteration!), a light hold hair spray that imparts a luxe, not-too-flashy but oh-so-glamorous shine to your hair.  A fantastic aspect of this product is that its formulated without parabens, phthalates, PABAs, mineral oil, DEA, and petrolatum. Available exclusively and only online at Sephora.com, this hairspray is a great way to up the
ante on your holiday look, or serves as the perfect stocking stuffer!!



Product info at Sephora 

From a Wise Philosopher...

  I have always had a strong attraction to Philosophy products.  The adorable packaging (mostly on their body washes), unique fragrances, inventive product names and the overall mantra of the company make the entire line oh-so-appealing.  Their most popular, original product is Hope In a Jar - an all-purpose moisturizer that contains some fabulous ingredients that provide stellar results.
  Firstly, the entire formulation is a mousse-like texture, it is light, fluffy almost, and is quickly absorbed into the skin.  Slight exfoliation and the promotion of cell turnover is initiated by Lauryl Lactate, which is the ester of Lactic Acid, the natural alpha-hydroxy acid found in milk.  This acid ester works on the surface of the skin and helps to impart radiance by removing dead cells.  The next powerful ingredient is beta glucan, which is a derivative of glucose.  The beta glucan plays an interesting role in this concoction - it helps to strengthen and regenerate specific cells that target environmental toxins, dead cells, malfunctioning cells, or any other substances that are not natural or necessary for optimal functioning of the skin.  Once initiated, these cells target the removal of cells, toxins, or unnatural substances that may be the result of UV damage, environmental toxins, and free radicals.  Ultimately, the beta glucan helps to restore youth and is known to diminish fine lines while also returning skin to optimal function by ensuring that its protection factors are strong.
  Along with a shot of Vitamin E, which helps to moisturize and protect the skin, Hope in a Jar also contains Retinyl Palmitate, the precursor to Vitamin A (my favourite all-time skincare ingredient), which encourages cell proliferation and turnover, promotes collagen and elastin production, and reduces fine lines, sun damage, and results in luminous, radiant skin.
  Hope In a Jar has been a cult favourite for some time now, and right in time for the holiday season is limited-edition packaging, perfect for anyone on your list!

Hope In a Jar on Sephora's website



For the Love of Kabuki

  This Holiday season (which is so quickly approaching!!), NARS has unveiled a super exclusive, extremely giftable set of lip colour.  The Bento Box was inspired by Francois Nars' fascination with the drama and precision behind Kabuki style makeup, and is thus packaged as two separable, ceramic bowls within a beautiful wooden box. Inside the ceramic bowls are two, hand-poured lipstick formulations - Maiko, a devilish red and Sakura, a playful pink - which took over ten years to perfect.  As always, the lipstick is highly pigmented and contains nourishing Vitamin E.  Within the set is a wisteria brush, which allows for precise, even application.  Priced at $140 and available exclusively at Holt Renfrew (in Canada), this is one gift that a true beauty addict would adore.



NARS Bento Box

Berry Beneficial

    Raspberries have long been touted for their powerful health benefits - they possess strong antioxidant properties and are chock full of essential and cancer-fighting ingredients.  The component in raspberries (and other berries and nuts) is a phytochemical (plant chemical) called ellagic acid.  Studies have shown that it is likely that ellagic acid has anti-angiogenic properties through its inhibition of cancer cell growth.  Moreover, it has protective properties that help to detoxify and nourish the body.  Cosmetic scientists have caught on to this notion and believe that these detoxifying, protective, antioxidant properties would be exhibited in a cosmetic formulation.  Thus far, it has been determined that ellagic acid prevents the formation of age spots, wrinkles, and other damage caused by UVB rays through the inhibition of MMP (matrix metalloproteinase) enzyme production.  MMP enzymes break down the holy grail of youth: collagen - and nobody wants that!   With the prevalence of natural ingredients in cosmetics, coinciding with the idea that what goes on the body goes in the body, it is fairly safe to say that ellagic acid would exhibit some of its rockstar qualities in a cosmetic product.  I can't wait for more research to be done on this exciting ingredient!

Ellagic Acid in Cosmetics and Toiletries
Ellagic Acid on Cancer.org

Slip into Something a Little More Comfortable...

  It has become evident that I have a slight obsession with all things that sparkle or shine.  So, it's something short of a miracle that I haven't discovered this absolutely amazing product sooner.  Allow me to introduce... Bare Escentual's Body Lingerie.  This "luminous body shimmer" resides in a vintage-looking perfume bottle, equipped with atomizer (to provide the perfect amount of product with every spritz) and all.  A combination of mica (a silicate stone that is highly utilized for cosmetic purposes for its ability to impart a uniform, intense sparkle.  This is due to the hexagonal nature of the atoms that form each crystal), bismuth oxychloride (adds a pearlescent shimmer), oxides of iron and titanium, silica, and a natural vanilla scent all contribute to the fabulousity of this product. 



More info at Bare Escentuals and ingredient info at Cosmetics Database

Image courtesy of BE website, ingredient info from Cosmetics Database

Stocking Stuffer Beauty - Holiday Gift Guide

From top:

1. MAC Tartan Tale Holiday Collection 2010 - www.maccosmetics.com
2. philosophy The Gingerbread House - ginger-spiced and uber festive bubble bath and shower gel
3. Chloe Chloe Gift Set - the design house's floral, sexy, addictive scent
4. NARS Orgasm Lust Lip + Cheek Set - Laguna and Orgasm cheek compact, Super Orgasm lipgloss

Image 1 courtesy of www.maccosmetics.com
2-4 available at www.sephora.com (images courtesy of)

 

Cream Dream

 

 "Cream"-based cosmetic products are often daunting - at first they impart a luminous, dewy finish on your cheeks or eyelids, but shortly following that moment of beauty bliss, the product has disappeared from your face, and you're left looking like an oily mess.  Those were the old days, I'm happy to report, because Makeup Forever, a professional line of cosmetic products in any colour or formulation a beauty addict could dream of (!), has come out with Aqua Cream - a line of long-wearing, waterproof products for eyes, lips, and cheeks. 
  Staying true to the Makeup Forever line, Aqua Cream is packed full of highly concentrated pigments, accented with mother of pearl to ensure that colour is intense, but never flat.  The waterproof quality is a result of a filmogen polymer, which is water insoluble and mixed seamlessly with the pigment to encapsulate the colour and form a near impermeable layer between your skin and the elements.  The polymer also allows flexibility in the product, meaning that it has movement and thus will not dry up and flake off. The innovation, however, does not stop there...
  Included in the formulation is koalin mineral powder, which is simply the powder of the kaolin rock, which is an aluminum silicate.  The kaolin rock is often used for porcelain, and has light diffusing properties which prevent the product from feeling thick or heavy.  Furthermore, to ensure longevity and prevent skin irritation, a blend of essential oils, listed as "volatil oil" are included in the mix.  Volatility pertains to the ability of a substance to evaporate, so these volatile essential oils impart a calming aspect to the skin and quickly evaporate to adhere the product to the applied area.
  This product is absolutely amazing.  It's extremely long-wearing and never flakes off.  Available at Sephora in a wide range of colours, with uniquely tailored formulations for lips, eyes, or cheeks.  Moreover, this line of products is completely paraben free, so go cream yourself!



Images courtesy of, and more information at www.makeupforever.com

There's Nothing Quite Like....



Louis Vuitton glamour. I absolutely adore their Fall 2010 ad campaign - the beauty emulates that of a polished, glamorous, sophisticated woman.  Luminous skin, highlighted perfectly, a natural lip and minimalist eye makeup.  I'll be trying this look out ASAP, ponytail included.

www.louisvuitton.com

Buttery Perfection

  As the days become shorter, the wind more biting, and the ground begins to frost, it's likely that your skin is feeling the effects.  In my case, I always notice that my lips, cuticles, and hands are lacking some serious moisture - until now!  I've started using L'Occitane's pure shea butter, and it is absolutely fantastic.  The directions indicate to "melt into your hands", but I've been applying it to my cuticles and lips too... all over moisture!  My favourite aspect of this product is that the only ingredient is shea butter - no preservatives, no artificial fragrance, nothing.  Pure, simple, soothing perfection. 
  Shea butter is sourced from West and Central Africa.  It's a fatty substance that is generated from the nuts of the Karite tree.  Its high fatty acid content accounts for its ability to moisturize so effectively, but it also contains Vitamins E and A, both essential vitamins which are thought to have anti-microbial, anti-inflammatory properties and also to be involved in cell turnover and protection.
  L'Occitane en Provence is a French company that has been socially conscious since it was founded in 1976.  They are kind to the environment, promote sustainable development, organic products, and support of the culture and economy from which their ingredients are sourced.





L'Occitane en Provence website and information

Skin Gems

    Semi-precious and precious gemstones, along with metals such as Gold, Silver, and Platinum, are the newest ingredients to be introduced into the world of skincare.  With a little bit of luxury and a whole lot of beneficial properties, stones such as diamond, sapphire, quartz, and tourmaline, and the precious metals as listed above, are storming the industry in the newest, hottest innovations.  Here, I'll outline the properties of such luxurious ingredients....

  Sapphire is a precious stone that is touted for its ability to promote joy, faith, and hope.  It's an aluminum oxide, and is thought to gain its colour through impurities of titanium or chromium.  Historically, sapphire has been utilized for its healing and calming abilities in therapeutic processes.  In the latest skin care products, it is incorporated into unique complexes to generate radiance and luminosity, or its granules for intense exfoliation, which encourages cell proliferation, collagen production, and cell turnover.

  Tourmaline is a fairly inexpensive stone that is most commonly used, these days, in hair tools such as flat irons and blow dryers.  Tourmaline is a silicate-based zwitterion, meaning that is possesses a positive and negative charge within the same compound.  This zwitterionic property encourages increased absorption of nutrients and minerals, so when incorporated into a skin care product, may have the ability to increase its efficacy.  In beauty products, tourmaline is most likely to be used for exfoliation (similar to sapphire), moisturization, and anti-ageing.

  Silver is a mineral that is well known for its antibacterial and antimicrobial properties.  Silver dressings, to this day, are one of the most reliable methods for treating burn victims and preventing scars.  Silver has this unique, fascinating ability because it promotes healing, and also speeds cell renewal and cell growth - perfect for encouraging healthy skin and acting as a leading anti-ageing ingredient.

  Gold, among the former listed ingredients, has probably been utilized most commonly in luxury skin care products.  Gold imparts a unique radiance, has anti-bacterial properties, and gold nanoparticles have detoxifying (by encouraging lymphatic drainage), revitalizing properties due to the phenomenon of electron transfer, which influences many cellular functions.  Furthermore, gold complexes act as to firm skin, increase flexibility and diminish fine lines.



Sapphire information
Tourmaline information
Silver information
Gold information
 

Hard As Nails

  Cheeky Monkey is a fantastic Canadian cosmetics company that specializes in nail lacquers that are not for the demure, faint of heart female.  The line, which is completely free of toluene, formaldehyde, and DBP, offers a wide range of high quality nail colours with hilarious, frank, and provocative monikers.  For example, a few of the shades I'm yearning to try out are: Brazen Hussy, Raunchy Bitch, Thigh Highs, and Damn I'm Hot. 
  Cheeky Monkey Cosmetics encourage strong, confident, hard-working women to embrace their edgy, fun, and naughty side.  Their website is extremely interactive, and they offer unique, delectable drink pairings for each of their shades, tips and tricks, endless information pertaining to their availability across Canada, and even have the option of signing up for a Cheeky Party, where all the girls can get together for mani/pedis, cocktails, and gossip
  Check out the Cheeky Monkey Cosmetics website, you will not be disappointed.



Glittereyez

  As I've mentioned before, glitter, sparkles, and shimmer never fail to remind me of the holiday season, and more specifically, holiday beauty!  I often use this time of year to try out vampy new trends that just wouldn't seem appropriate in the middle of July.  Last year, I was absolutely loving the Heritage Rouge pigment from MAC.  Mixed with bronze shadow and paired with an LBD, it was a daring, but classic look.
  My look-du-jour this time around is all over glitter.  This look is definitely bold, but has an ethereal quality as well - like a dark angel.  Now, when applying glitter all over, you run the risk of looking like Ke$ha, or a pre-teen, neither of which are appealing.  However, in the December issue of Flare, they profiled a beautiful take on this look....



Flare Dec. 2010

  Gorgeous!  I purchased the product that they used - Annabelle Glitterama Liquid Eyeliner in Plutonium - to achieve a similar result.  It's super easy to apply all over the lid because its liquid, not to mention it is extremely long lasting.  Pair with a little bit of eyeliner, loads of mascara, and keep the rest of your face neutral for a beautiful take on holiday glamour.

Cruelty-Free Application

  As we gradually become more socially and environmentally conscious, the need for both eco friendly and cruelty free beauty products expands.  Many of us want our products to be vegan, that is void of any animal byproducts, and in a perfect world, no product would be tested on animals.  Cruelty free products are becoming much more popular and animal-testing losing ground at a rapid pace.  However, in my eco-friendly, animal-loving mind, I failed to recognize that the majority of the brushes I use for the application of my cosmetic products may in fact be an animal product. 
  Cosmetic brushes have traditionally been made of animal fur - squirrel, sable, goat, horse... the list goes on.  The furs used to construct these brushes are sourced from many different suppliers, and there is no doubt in my mind that some of the animals are treated cruelly.  Moreover, after doing some preliminary research, I discovered that these fur-based brushes are actually quite unsanitary.  Because they are fur-based, each hair has a cuticle, that over time, despite avid washing and proper care, becomes a bacteria-haven.  How unappealing.
  Synthetic brushes are a great alternative to natural brushes due to their cruelty-free, often eco-friendly manufacturing processes, their longevity, and cleanliness.  Taklon is a great synthetic, polyester fiber that is used as an alternative to animal furs.  It can be manipulated during its production to form soft fibres for a powder brush, or short, stiff bristles for an eyeliner brush.  Moreover, because it is not a fur, it contains no cuticle and thus maintains its cleanliness much longer, which in turn adds to its life span.  Taklon, and other synthetic brush materials, are considered to be vegan, green, and hypo-allergenic.
  Urban Decay has a great line of synthetic brushes - their Good Karma collection contains all brushes made with Taklon, so you can apply your makeup in a green, cruelty-free fashion.  Now that, is beautiful.



Urban Decay Big Buddha Brush

  The PETA website contains more great information pertaining to synthetic brushes and the companies that make them.  Check it out!

Vinotherapy

  No, silly, not the classically accepted, often indulged action of sipping a great Malbec with your girlfriends.  Although that form of vinotherapy is extremely beneficial to the soul, the beautiful geniuses (no, literally, this couple is absolutely stunning) who founded French beauty company Caudalie utilize compounds found in grape seed for therapeutic beauty purposes.  C'est magnifique!
  During a summer visit to a family vineyard during their university career (how romantic!), the beautiful twosome encountered an ingenius doctor employed by the Bordeaux University of Pharmacy, who informed them of the powerful antioxidant properties of a polyphenol extract of the grape seed.  Within a year, Caudalie was formed, and ever since, the company has been on a roll in terms of discovering innovative ingredients present in the grape.
  The grape seed polyphenol helps to reduce oxidative damage, protect the skin from environmental toxins and stressors, and is easily metabolized by the body.  But wait, the innovation hardly stops there!  Soon after the company was established, another potent antioxidant, this time found in the skin of red grapes, was discovered and patented as grape Resveratrol.  Grape Resveratrol, also a polyphenol, acts as to activate cell renewal and encourage the proliferation of cells to provide radiant skin.  Furthermore, the most recent innovation to come from the Caudalie team is Viniferine, which is also a polyphenol antioxidant, this time found in the stalk of the plant.  The compound has been patented due to its unique ability to inhibit the synthesis of melanin (no visible sun damage?!)
  Although I have yet to try any Caudalie products, I am extremely excited to investigate them ASAP at Sephora.  In addition to being extremely chic, this company is also very environmentally conscious, and has our health in mind, thus does not utilize potentially harmful chemicals such as parabens, mineral oils, artificial colours, or the irritating sodium laureth sulfate.  Moreover, all products are considered to be organic and the majority of the ingredients are completely natural.  Now that, is vinotherapy.



More information on the company and products  here

What makes you blush?

  Lip and cheek stains have long been a staple in many cosmetic bags.  My personal favourite is Benefit's cult classic, Benetint.  It is a translucent, red liquid that can provide a subtle, pink glow to cheeks, or if layered, a deep crimson to lips.  But what exactly causes a stain to do just that - stain?
  Benetint has a very short list of ingredients such as water and glycerin, pretty standard.  But the ingredient that is responsible for generating that rosy glow is quite interesting.  It's called carmine, and is derived from an interesting source - the female insect Doccus cacti, which live on the pear cactus plant and are native to Mexico.  Prior to laying eggs, these insects turn a bright red colour, and this is the time when they are collected and harvested.  The red shells are dried and mixed with a solvent to create a liquid, and the other insect parts discarded (obviously, ew!) 
  I found this quite interesting - as carmine has been used as a dye or stain since the Aztecs.  Other uses of carmine are in paint and food colouring.  The actual compound is a sugar, and comprised of simple atoms such as carbon, oxygen, and hydrogen, which classifies it as organic.  The compound is extracted as carminic acid, the formula shown below.



Carminic acid

Carmine information

The Key to Youthful, Glowing Skin...

  is in your genes!  The latest anti-ageing products to hit the market (ie. Lancome's Genefique, Biotherm's Skin Vivo collection) are targeting the very inner workings of our bodies in order to reverse or postpone the ageing process.  They go about this task by targeting gene expression.  Genes are information carriers that allow us to be as complex and diverse as we are - genes are expressed, or the information extracted, to create a functional gene product.  However, as we age, or with the introduction of external factors such as UV radiation, environmental stressors, free radicals, etc., our genes are not expressed as efficiently, and often with mistakes.  Biotherm's Skin Vivo incorporates revolutionary ingredients as to improve and regulate gene expression, and also to protect cellular DNA.  Reverserol SV is an extract of the African candle bush plant, which has been used historically to treat everything from indigestion to fever.  It also incorporates pure thermal plankton at a high concentration, its purity guaranteed due to its in-lab bio-fermentation process.  The thermal plankton improves luminosity and suppleness and also stimulates the production of four genes involved in ageing.  Moreover, it is a mineral rich activator which reinforces our skin's natural anti-ageing defenses, helps to calm the skin and diminish redness, and protects against external, damaging factors such as those mentioned above.  In addition to the two main ingredients, Skin Vivo also contains necessary bio-peptides and amino acids, as well as Silcium (or Silicon), which is an essential mineral for the formation of connective tissue, cell metabolism and the maintenance of skin health. 
  The Skin Vivo line includes an eye cream, serum, and cream formulation.  There are eight patents and years of research that have gone into this product, and the testimonials speak for themselves.  I'm very excited to see what this product has to offer! 
More information can be found here



Biotherm Skin Vivo

L'Wren Scott for Lancome - Holiday 2010

  The glitz, glitter, and glamour seen in all of the fashion magazines (hello, December edition of Flare!) starting November(ish) never fails to trigger a sense of holiday spirit inside me, and immediately I begin to feverishly online shop for clothes, shoes, makeup, and pretty much anything that can be purchased.  Be prepared for my own holiday cosmetic wish list, which may over-take this blogspace over the next 7 or so weeks.  You've been warned.


  First up: Lancome's collaboration with designer L'Wren Scott.  Everything about this entire collection is absolutely delicious.  The luxurious, deep red lipstick (which, according to Scott herself, takes on a whole new life when applied with the equally as glorious red lip gloss), the eyeshadow palette of graduating shades of shimmering grays, the smokey slate polish, and the limited edition Hypnose Drama mascara.  This mascara is what I'm most excited for.  It's got the classic, amazing formulation of the original Hypnose Drama (hello intense volume+length) with an added kick of silver shimmer.  Absolutely perfect for the batting your eyelashes under the mistletoe.  Need. It. NOW.



Check out the Lancome website for more details, or Flare for some beautiful holiday looks

Crack, For Hair!

    If you're anything like me, the finishing touch to any look is sexy, voluminous hair.  Sometimes, however, getting that gorgeous volume and va-va-voom texture can be tricky, and damaging to your hair (hello, backcombing!).... Until NOW!
    If you haven't got your pretty little hands on a bottle of Shwarzkopf Osis+ Dust it, or Kevin Murphy's adorably monikered Powder Puff, you are missing out on all your dreams of sexy bedroom-esque texture, un-faltering volume, and mattifying gloriousness.  Both products are silica based - they use silica silylate particles, which act as to mattify, thicken, and absorb excess oil + sebum.  Silica silylate is hydrophobic, meaning that it repels water, and thus allows your hair to be piled sky high. The silica, along with a unique combination of polymers, allows for intense, hair-up-to-there volume that simply does not stop!  When you notice your volume start to fall a little, massage your scalp and BOOM! it's back to sexy.
  I was introduced to both these products by my stylist, Tim McClean (Oskar on Scollard), aka hair enthusiast/genius.  He applied the product directly to my hair, and backcombed to demonstrate that you can literally make hair stand on its ends!  I purchased the Osis+ Dust It product, simply because the Kevin Murphy had yet to be launched.  The two products are essentially the same, but the Kevin Murphy Powder Puff has a finer texture, and also incorporates more moisturizing, nourishing, natural ingredients.
  These products are absolutely perfect for creating a perfectly de-constructed, voluminous 'do, as seen consistently on the runway, in fashion magazines, and not so surprisingly, on my head.  One warning: it's heavily addictive, proceed with caution.



Cinnamon Buns

  If you, like me, have ever tried Cake Beauty's Sweet Cheeks Better Body rub, you've instantly fallen in love with the luxurious texture, intense and long-lasting moisture it provides, the delectable cinnamon scent, and an increased tautness to the areas it has been applied.  It's listed on the website that the key ingredients in this moisture-rich formula are shea butter (very moisturizing, and anti-inflammatory properties too!) and Liftensyl.
  Liftensyl?  What is that?!  I took it upon myself to investigate... and here's what I came up with!  Liftensyl is a polymer derived from soy protein, and has immediate, "flash effect" skin tightening properties.  It's got fantastic anti-aging properties and is widely used in European cosmetics. 
  Along with Liftensyl and shea butter, this deluxe moisturizer also contains caffeine, which helps to stimulate circulation (and thus diminish cellulite) and horse chestnut extract.  Horse, what?!
  Horse chestnut is a plant that is poisonous to most animals.  It contains a saponin-class toxin called Aesculin, which is a glycoside.  When prepared for cosmetic-grade use, horse chestnut can help to increase blood circulation, thin the blood, prevent water retention, and overall, exhibits diuretic-type properties.  Moreover, horse chestnut contains flavinoids, glycosides, and saponins, which collectively have anti-inflammatory and healing properties. 
  I absolutely LOVE this product, and would recommend it to anyone who is in need of a little lift - both psychologically and physically. 



Cake Beauty

Liftensyl information

Horse Chestnut info

Get Glowing!

  Here's a little makeup artist trick that I use to give my skin a dewy glow: 
    When applying a foundation (or in my case, my favourite oil-free tinted moisturizer from Laura Mercier), dampen a cosmetic sponge before application.  This simple little trick allows for a more translucent application, with the water changing the formulation ever so slightly so that the foundation glides easily over your skin, is less opaque, and imparts a subtle dewy texture.  For best results, try to dab the sponge instead of dragging for an even application and a higher glow factor!



Laura Mercier

Tom Ford is on my Wish List....

  The new Black Orchid collection, that is (although a little T.Ford wouldn't be so bad either!).  Black Orchid by Tom Ford is a cult-favourite scent.  It's sultry, warm, sensual, and emulates the exclusivity of the black orchid.  The Black Orchid collection includes a solid version of the scent, and a luxurious burgundy lipstick (with its very chic casing and luxurious ingredients) and a matching nail colour.  Vampy, sexy, and a little bit rebellious... everything I love in a beauty product!  This trio is on my wish list...



Re-charge, Re-energize, Re-invigorate

  After a weekend of great parties, amazing friends, fabulous costumes, a few cocktails and not enough sleep, my skin is definitely looking a little dry and drab!  Aside from downing glass after glass of water to re-hydrate, I'm reaching for my Biotherm Multi-Recharge moisturizer! 
  This moisturizer is absolutely perfect for injecting some life back into your skin!  It's got essential amino acids (the building blocks of our bodies) and antioxidants, which help to protect your skin as well as react with free-radicals so that they don't permeate our systems.  It also contains ginseng extract, which utilizes its energizing properties to increase circulation in your face (and give you a little bit of a glow!).  And as if this product couldn't contain any more fabulous and beneficial ingredients, Vitamin C and E (energize and hydrate!), hyaluronic acid (helps stimulate collagen production and plump up your skin) and SPF 15 (just because it's November, doesn't mean you can stop using sunscreen!!) are also present in this delicious concoction.
  Check out the biotherm website for more information on Multi Recharge Day Cream (SPF 15) and re-energize your skin!



Bonjour mon cherie...

  L'ancome's French Coquette collection is, in all its entirety, extremely covetable.  The lovely, shimmering gold-pink face powder La Rose Deco is elegant and will surely deliver a glamorous effect when used as a blush and highlighter.  The French Touch lipstick, with casing inspired by the Eiffel Tower, glides on beautifully and delivers moisturizing, comfortable, and oh-so-chic lip colour.  The real highlight of the collection, however, is the innovative and spectacular Ombre Magnetique.  It's like the ingenious love child of cream shadow and intense pigment.  A unique blend of polymers allow for extreme long-wear and an intense finish, allowing the product to have a slight elasticity to it and move with the contour of your eye.  In addition to the polymer blend is a heap of moisturizers to give the creamy texture.  It was, after all, inspired by the texture and formulation of lipstick.  The intensity comes from the blend of pigment, which can be applied more heavily to act as an intense liner, or in a more light-handed fashion to act more as a shadow.  However you choose to wear this product, it will surely be uber-glam.



Check out the collection on L'ancome's website, here

Vamp It Up

  Move over Restylane, there's a new filler in town!  Cleverly nicknamed the Vampire Facelift, Selphyl utilizes the patients own blood to synthesize an essentially natural filler!  So how does this work, exactly?
  First, blood is drawn from the patient and separated via centrifuge (this spins the components at a very high speed, separating the cellular components from each other - I used these all the time in my lab!) to isolate the blood platelets and the fibrin.  In the Selphyl System, the separated mixtures are called the Platelet Rich Plasma (PRP) and the activated Platelet-rich Fibrin Matrix (PRFP).  The mixture is then further prepared for injection, and is administered just below the surface of the skin.
  The result?  A natural increase in volume and an overall rejuvenated appearance, mostly due to the mixture's ability to encourage cell proliferation and collagen formation.
  But how, exactly, does this work?  and Why?!  Well, platelets are colourless, irregularly-shaped bodies that have sticky surfaces and are present in our blood.  Platelets are involved in the clotting of the blood.  They gather around a wound and are aided by Calcium, Vitamin K, and fibrogen to form a web-like mesh.  Fibrin plays a similar role.  It is an insoluble protein that is formed in response to bleeding by its soluble precursor, fibrinogen and clotting enzyme, thrombin.  Fibrin forms a long, fibrous chain, and entangles itself at the site of a wound, with the platelets, to form a spongy mass.  Makes sense in terms of adding volume when administered to the face, doesn't it?!
  Moreover, natural growth factors and other cellular components encourage increased cell proliferation (ie. new cells to form) and of course, the ever so sought after, collagen production. 



Learn more about Selphyl here

More Blue!

  How did I not discover this nail colour earlier?!  The shade is "For Audrey" by China Glaze, and mimics the eponymous Tiffany blue.  I love love love China Glaze lacquers, as they're DBP and Toluene (known carcinogens!!) free, and also contain no added formaldehyde.  Moreover, they use China clay as a hardener, which is the material in porcelain that gives it that high-shine finish! 



China Glaze



Sea of Blue

  Over the course of LG Fashion Week (and events prior), and also through my browsing of current magazines, I noticed that an upcoming trend in the beauty world is BLUE - on eyes, and even lips! 
  At the Philip Sparks S/S '11 show, models were made up with luminescent, glowing skin, neutral eyes, and a thick stripe of light teal liner on the lower lashline.  At Amanda Lew Kee's amazing show during LG Fashion Week, models wore minimal makeup aside from a strong, opaque, sky blue lip.  Attention grabbing? Definitely.  Wearable?  Maybe not.
  I've always been a huge fan of dark blue - indigo, navy, cobalt - eyeshadow and liner, which I think allows for an unexpected, yet classy twist to a smoky eye, or acts as a jolt of colour (when using cobalt) to a neutral palette.  But sky blue?  Not sure if I'd be able to bring myself to applying a light blue shadow/liner, it is simply too reminiscent of pre-teen dances and opaque, powder blue shadow laden with glitter.  What are your thoughts?  Would you wear an icy or light blue on your eyes?  What about lips?!



Amanda Lew Kee

Philip Sparks

Summer Fades Into Fall

.... but that doesn't mean your (self) TAN has to!!  As the weather cools, we Canadians become accustomed to accepting the paler, more drab versions of our former glowing selves.  However, that does NOT have to be the case!  Clarin's Delicious Self Tanning Cream is the perfect self-tanner for all months, but is especially beneficial during the cooler months due to its intense moisturization quotient!
  This miracle worker consistently produces natural looking result.  You can apply full strength for a glowing, bronzed effect, or mix with your favourite moisturizer for a more subtle glow.
  What makes it so fantastic?  It's the moisturizing cocoa bean extract and cocoa unsaponifiables (read: doesn't form a soap when mixed with lye, therefore allowing moisture retention and conditioning), which accounts for its luxurious texture and skin conditioning results.  Moreover, you can use this self-tanning cream on your face, it will not clog pores and does not leave an oily residue!  Beautiful!!

http://www.clarins.com/





This is Love...

  Ever the fan of shimmery, sparkly, eyeshadow, I decided that I was in need of something different - a taupe, matte, palette.  I purchased NARS eyeshadow duo in Portobello, and am ABSOLUTELY obsessed.  It's warm, taupe-y, neutral perfection!



NARS Duo in Portobello

  However, am I surprised?  A longtime fan of the NARS Orgasm blush and lipgloss, not to mention my devotion to Laguna bronzer, selecting this palette was simply the natural choice!  LOVE IT!

Spring 2011 Beauty @ LG Fashion Week

  I had the pleasure of attending the opening night of LG Fashion Week (Beauty by L'Oreal) in Toronto on Monday night.  Holt Renfrew first presented an energetic show consisting Canadian creations from Pink Tartan, Smythe, Line RUNWAY, Wings & Horns, Denis Gagnon, Jeremy Laing, Mikhael Kale, and Lida Baday.  The show consisted of snippets of the resective Spring '11 collections.  It was energetic, fast-paced, and left the audience yearning for more!  Later that evening, we were treated to boys in bright colours + eyeliner at Bustle (lots of eye candy!)

Some beauty highlights/2011 Trends:

Pink Tartan:  luminous, perfect skin with subtle, peach-coloured lips.  Fresh!



Pink Tartan

Lida Baday: neutral glam - perfect look for every day!



Lida Baday

Smythe: Glowing skin and intense, exciting electric pink lips!





Smythe

Wayne Clark: Classic glamour - black liner, slight smokey eye with a neutral lip - all to complement the absolutely stunning gowns.



Wayne Clark

  Please check out Fashion Magazine (images courtesy of!) and the  LG Fashion Week website for full coverage and information pertaining to the shows!

Pearls are a Girls Best Friend?

  Over the weekend I was reading Beauty Biz magazine, and came across an interesting article about the use of pearls in cosmetic products.  Obviously, using a gemstone that is synonymous with lustre, glamour, and beauty is a great way to market a product, but what is the science behind the use of pearl in these products?

  Pearls are created inside a mollusk with the addition of an irritant, and are the only gemstones to be created within a living animal.  Historically, they have had many therapeutic uses, ranging from indigestion to longevity of life.  They are composed of calcium carbonate and a protein called conchilion.
  Calcium Carbonate: commonly used in cosmetic products, such as toothpaste (it is abrasive), as a calming agent (it is basic, neutralizing inflammation), and as a buffering agent.
  Conchilion: unique protein, which, similar to calcium carbonate, is basic.  The main components of this protein are the amino acids (building blocks of life) glycine, valine, leucine, lysine, and arginine.  All of the components have their unique properties and purposes, but the following three seem to have the most profound roles...
        Lysine: required for the formation of collagen
        Valine: acts as a moisturizer
        Glycine: reduces oxidative damage, and is required for protein synthesis

  I'm looking forward to trying some products synthesized with the components of pearls.  In addition to the therapeutic properties of the components, crushed pearl also adds lustre and can diminish imperfections on the surface of the skin.
  Products containing pearl:  Lancome La Laque Fever Lipshine Collection, Benefit Girl Meets Pearl Liquid Pearl for Face, La Mer The Illuminating Powder. 



Conchilion Protein

Product of the Week - MAC Pigment

  MAC Pigment comes in an array of shades (34, plus many special editions!) and finishes (matte, frost, pearl, metal), and is a dependable product that can be tailored to deliver a soft wash of colour, or intensified to create a dramatic look.  This product is extremely versatile (you can even mix it with clear nail polish to make a personalized colour!!!) and long-lasting.

  What makes it so amazing?  Well, it contains a variety of compounds that help to increase its longevity and enhance the product.  Octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate is an ester that slows water loss, essentially creating a barrier between your skin and the product (making it long-lasting).  It also contains, among other compounds, isostearyl neopentanoate, which acts as a lubricant, smooths the surface of application, and holds the pigment together.  These two ingredients, along with a healthy dose of mica, results in a smooth, long-lasting colour. 
 
  My favourite shade of pigment right now is Heritage Rouge (although, sadly has been discontinued from the looks of it!), a deep burgundy that gives the perfect grunge-glam look that's hot for fall. 



Cosmetics Info
MAC Cosmetics

Hyalur-what?

Hyaluronic Acid, or Hyaluronan is one of the newer anti-ageing "miracle" ingredients on the beauty scene.  But does anyone actually know what it's doing? How it works?  Doubt it... so let me fill you in!

  Hyaluronic acid is a biological polymer - a polymer that is found naturally within our bodies.  It's found in all types of tissue, but is often concentrated around joints, in the umbilical cord, and in our extracellular matrix.  Traditionally, this glycosaminoglycan has been used in medicine for treatment of rheumatoid arthritis, as it helps to restore flexibility and elasticity around the joints. 
  Essentially, it binds water in the extracellular matrix and holds cells together in a jelly-like consistency.  This is why it's been utilized for so many cosmetic purposes!  As a filler, it is bio-compatible (your body is unlikely to reject it), and plumps up at the site of injection.  In other cosmetic products, such as moisturizers, anti-ageing treatments, even in cosmeceutical lipsticks and blushes, it acts to temporarily smooth and plump the applied surface. 

  Products with hyaluronic acid include: Hylaform Dermal Filler, Fusion Beauty Sculptdiva Blush, Biotherm Multi Recharge SPF 15 Moisturizer (my favourite!), and many, many more!!

Source:  Struct Chem (2008) 19:697-717

Organic, Luxurious, Affordable... and Canadian?!

  Yes!  You read that correctly.  Consonant (www.consonantbody.com) is a fabulous Canadian beauty company that offers a completely organic (we're talking paraben, sulfate, and phthalate free!) product line.


  Just an FYI: phthalates are used in everything from plastics (to make them more flexible and enhance their lifetime), flooring, adhesives and paint pigment.  They're an environmental estrogen that accumulate in our fat cells over time.... Do you really want to be putting this stuff on your body?! NO!


  I recently picked up the Organic Body Lotion and it is absolutely divine.  Skin is silky, hydrated, and happy!
  Moreover, Flare magazine (http://www.flare.com/) recently profiled Consonant's Ultra Firming Organic Eye Cream, touting its skin-firming benefits due to the addition of zinc. Zinc is a necessary participant in collagen production, is involved in cell proliferation (remember the Retinol post?), and is essential for the production of natural antioxidants and helps activate particular metalloproteinaises (protein based enzymes that contain a metal co-factor) in the removal of mutated cells.  Overall - Zinc is wonderful!*


  In Toronto, Consonant products are available at The Bay, and other leading independent retailers/salons.  Check out their website for more info! 

Consonant Organic Body Lotion



*More about zinc and its healing ability at: http://www.bioskinbalm.com/zinc/

Prime Time

  Primers are a great way to ensure that you achieve a flawless complexion - each and every day!  My favourite is the original Smashbox Photo Finish, it's oil-free so won't cause breakouts, it lasts forever, and can even be worn without foundation for a matte, silky, sans-makeup look.
  Why is it so fantastic?  It's got a plethora of silicones in it - the primary ingredient being cyclomethicone.  Silicones are too big of molecules to penetrate our skin cells, so therefore they form a uniform layer on top - explaining the longevity and lack of pore-clogging. Moreover, cyclomethicone formulations stay blended, accounting for the uniformity of the mixture! 

http://www.smashbox.com/

For the Love of OPI...

  One of my favourite things about the return of fall - the luxurious, vampy nail colours.  What I'm absolutely loving right now?  OPI Suede Collection... luxe!!!



Retinol - The Ultimate in Skin Care

  Most people are aware of the power that natural antioxidants have in replenishing and restoring our skin, and protecting it from external stressors such as pollution and the sun.  These natural antioxidants - most commonly Vitamin A, C, and E, must be applied in an ideal formulation as to produce optimal results.
  Enter: Retinol.  A naturally occuring form of Vitamin A, and a compound which develops into retinoic acid. How does retinol work its magic?  It readily penetrates our skin and aids in proper cellular function, speeds up cellular proliferation (or skin cell renewal), and increases collagen and hyaluronate production.  The result?  Smoother, clearer, softer skin, with significant decreases in wrinkles, photo-damage, acne, and scars. 
  As a devoted user of Retinol for many years, I completely stand behind the amazing ability of this naturally occurring antioxidant.  It truly is the ultimate weapon in the quest for flawless skin.
  Beware: In prescription or stronger OTC formulations, Retinol may cause irritation and slight inflammation until your skin is accustomed to the product.  Also, it causes a slight photosensitivity, so be sure to slather on that SPF!

The chemical structure of retinol

J Drugs Dermatol 2008; 7(7) Supplement

Sperm Facial Treatment?

  One of the new, hot innovations in anti-ageing treatments has definitely garnered headlines for being extremely provocative: the so-called "sperm" facial.  The active protein is called spermidine, an essential growth factor in some bacteria which is thought to help stabilize the helical structure of DNA, as well as prevent the breakdown of collagen and muscle fibres when applied to the skin.  Rest assured, however, spermidine was originally isolated from human semen (back in the 1950s!) but is also a predominant polyamine in our skin cells.
  Researchers found that over time, the concentration of spermidine in your cells slowly decreases, and in studies, the application of spermidine to yeast, flies, worms, and human immune cells slowed this ageing, and actually had a rejuvenating effect on human cells.
  The treatment is supplemented with an infared light stimulation, which allows for deeper penetration of the spermidine into the skin cells.  As far as my research takes me, this treatment is most predominantly available in NYC.
  Interested in learning more?  Check out: "Nature Cell Biology 11, 1305-1314 (2009)"

Product of the Week

L'Oreal Lineur Intense

http://www.lorealparis.ca/

This liner has been my go-to for approximately 8 years now.  Why?  It's long lasting, the brush-tip allows for superior control of thickness, shape, and contour of the line created, and it's great value. 

Two polymers are included in the ingredient list: propylene glycol and acrylates copolymer.  The latter, in particular, contributes to the staying power as it adds an elastic like covering, leading to flexibility so that the applied product doesn't become dry and flake off.  Overall, amazing.

Welcome!

  I am a recent chemistry graduate who has always had a strong penchant for cosmetics, and all beauty products.  Using my knowledge of chemistry, I want to decipher what makes a product great, and also to have some fun highlighting new trends, innovations and beauty secrets.  Enjoy! ;)