Check out the collection on L'ancome's website, here
Thursday, October 28, 2010
Bonjour mon cherie...
L'ancome's French Coquette collection is, in all its entirety, extremely covetable. The lovely, shimmering gold-pink face powder La Rose Deco is elegant and will surely deliver a glamorous effect when used as a blush and highlighter. The French Touch lipstick, with casing inspired by the Eiffel Tower, glides on beautifully and delivers moisturizing, comfortable, and oh-so-chic lip colour. The real highlight of the collection, however, is the innovative and spectacular Ombre Magnetique. It's like the ingenious love child of cream shadow and intense pigment. A unique blend of polymers allow for extreme long-wear and an intense finish, allowing the product to have a slight elasticity to it and move with the contour of your eye. In addition to the polymer blend is a heap of moisturizers to give the creamy texture. It was, after all, inspired by the texture and formulation of lipstick. The intensity comes from the blend of pigment, which can be applied more heavily to act as an intense liner, or in a more light-handed fashion to act more as a shadow. However you choose to wear this product, it will surely be uber-glam.
Wednesday, October 27, 2010
Vamp It Up
Move over Restylane, there's a new filler in town! Cleverly nicknamed the Vampire Facelift, Selphyl utilizes the patients own blood to synthesize an essentially natural filler! So how does this work, exactly?
First, blood is drawn from the patient and separated via centrifuge (this spins the components at a very high speed, separating the cellular components from each other - I used these all the time in my lab!) to isolate the blood platelets and the fibrin. In the Selphyl System, the separated mixtures are called the Platelet Rich Plasma (PRP) and the activated Platelet-rich Fibrin Matrix (PRFP). The mixture is then further prepared for injection, and is administered just below the surface of the skin.
The result? A natural increase in volume and an overall rejuvenated appearance, mostly due to the mixture's ability to encourage cell proliferation and collagen formation.
But how, exactly, does this work? and Why?! Well, platelets are colourless, irregularly-shaped bodies that have sticky surfaces and are present in our blood. Platelets are involved in the clotting of the blood. They gather around a wound and are aided by Calcium, Vitamin K, and fibrogen to form a web-like mesh. Fibrin plays a similar role. It is an insoluble protein that is formed in response to bleeding by its soluble precursor, fibrinogen and clotting enzyme, thrombin. Fibrin forms a long, fibrous chain, and entangles itself at the site of a wound, with the platelets, to form a spongy mass. Makes sense in terms of adding volume when administered to the face, doesn't it?!
Moreover, natural growth factors and other cellular components encourage increased cell proliferation (ie. new cells to form) and of course, the ever so sought after, collagen production.
Learn more about Selphyl here
First, blood is drawn from the patient and separated via centrifuge (this spins the components at a very high speed, separating the cellular components from each other - I used these all the time in my lab!) to isolate the blood platelets and the fibrin. In the Selphyl System, the separated mixtures are called the Platelet Rich Plasma (PRP) and the activated Platelet-rich Fibrin Matrix (PRFP). The mixture is then further prepared for injection, and is administered just below the surface of the skin.
The result? A natural increase in volume and an overall rejuvenated appearance, mostly due to the mixture's ability to encourage cell proliferation and collagen formation.
But how, exactly, does this work? and Why?! Well, platelets are colourless, irregularly-shaped bodies that have sticky surfaces and are present in our blood. Platelets are involved in the clotting of the blood. They gather around a wound and are aided by Calcium, Vitamin K, and fibrogen to form a web-like mesh. Fibrin plays a similar role. It is an insoluble protein that is formed in response to bleeding by its soluble precursor, fibrinogen and clotting enzyme, thrombin. Fibrin forms a long, fibrous chain, and entangles itself at the site of a wound, with the platelets, to form a spongy mass. Makes sense in terms of adding volume when administered to the face, doesn't it?!
Moreover, natural growth factors and other cellular components encourage increased cell proliferation (ie. new cells to form) and of course, the ever so sought after, collagen production.
Learn more about Selphyl here
Tuesday, October 26, 2010
More Blue!
How did I not discover this nail colour earlier?! The shade is "For Audrey" by China Glaze, and mimics the eponymous Tiffany blue. I love love love China Glaze lacquers, as they're DBP and Toluene (known carcinogens!!) free, and also contain no added formaldehyde. Moreover, they use China clay as a hardener, which is the material in porcelain that gives it that high-shine finish!
China Glaze
China Glaze
Monday, October 25, 2010
Sea of Blue
Over the course of LG Fashion Week (and events prior), and also through my browsing of current magazines, I noticed that an upcoming trend in the beauty world is BLUE - on eyes, and even lips!
At the Philip Sparks S/S '11 show, models were made up with luminescent, glowing skin, neutral eyes, and a thick stripe of light teal liner on the lower lashline. At Amanda Lew Kee's amazing show during LG Fashion Week, models wore minimal makeup aside from a strong, opaque, sky blue lip. Attention grabbing? Definitely. Wearable? Maybe not.
I've always been a huge fan of dark blue - indigo, navy, cobalt - eyeshadow and liner, which I think allows for an unexpected, yet classy twist to a smoky eye, or acts as a jolt of colour (when using cobalt) to a neutral palette. But sky blue? Not sure if I'd be able to bring myself to applying a light blue shadow/liner, it is simply too reminiscent of pre-teen dances and opaque, powder blue shadow laden with glitter. What are your thoughts? Would you wear an icy or light blue on your eyes? What about lips?!
At the Philip Sparks S/S '11 show, models were made up with luminescent, glowing skin, neutral eyes, and a thick stripe of light teal liner on the lower lashline. At Amanda Lew Kee's amazing show during LG Fashion Week, models wore minimal makeup aside from a strong, opaque, sky blue lip. Attention grabbing? Definitely. Wearable? Maybe not.
I've always been a huge fan of dark blue - indigo, navy, cobalt - eyeshadow and liner, which I think allows for an unexpected, yet classy twist to a smoky eye, or acts as a jolt of colour (when using cobalt) to a neutral palette. But sky blue? Not sure if I'd be able to bring myself to applying a light blue shadow/liner, it is simply too reminiscent of pre-teen dances and opaque, powder blue shadow laden with glitter. What are your thoughts? Would you wear an icy or light blue on your eyes? What about lips?!
Amanda Lew Kee
Philip Sparks
Summer Fades Into Fall
.... but that doesn't mean your (self) TAN has to!! As the weather cools, we Canadians become accustomed to accepting the paler, more drab versions of our former glowing selves. However, that does NOT have to be the case! Clarin's Delicious Self Tanning Cream is the perfect self-tanner for all months, but is especially beneficial during the cooler months due to its intense moisturization quotient!
This miracle worker consistently produces natural looking result. You can apply full strength for a glowing, bronzed effect, or mix with your favourite moisturizer for a more subtle glow.
What makes it so fantastic? It's the moisturizing cocoa bean extract and cocoa unsaponifiables (read: doesn't form a soap when mixed with lye, therefore allowing moisture retention and conditioning), which accounts for its luxurious texture and skin conditioning results. Moreover, you can use this self-tanning cream on your face, it will not clog pores and does not leave an oily residue! Beautiful!!
This miracle worker consistently produces natural looking result. You can apply full strength for a glowing, bronzed effect, or mix with your favourite moisturizer for a more subtle glow.
What makes it so fantastic? It's the moisturizing cocoa bean extract and cocoa unsaponifiables (read: doesn't form a soap when mixed with lye, therefore allowing moisture retention and conditioning), which accounts for its luxurious texture and skin conditioning results. Moreover, you can use this self-tanning cream on your face, it will not clog pores and does not leave an oily residue! Beautiful!!
Thursday, October 21, 2010
This is Love...
Ever the fan of shimmery, sparkly, eyeshadow, I decided that I was in need of something different - a taupe, matte, palette. I purchased NARS eyeshadow duo in Portobello, and am ABSOLUTELY obsessed. It's warm, taupe-y, neutral perfection!
NARS Duo in Portobello
However, am I surprised? A longtime fan of the NARS Orgasm blush and lipgloss, not to mention my devotion to Laguna bronzer, selecting this palette was simply the natural choice! LOVE IT!
Tuesday, October 19, 2010
Spring 2011 Beauty @ LG Fashion Week
I had the pleasure of attending the opening night of LG Fashion Week (Beauty by L'Oreal) in Toronto on Monday night. Holt Renfrew first presented an energetic show consisting Canadian creations from Pink Tartan, Smythe, Line RUNWAY, Wings & Horns, Denis Gagnon, Jeremy Laing, Mikhael Kale, and Lida Baday. The show consisted of snippets of the resective Spring '11 collections. It was energetic, fast-paced, and left the audience yearning for more! Later that evening, we were treated to boys in bright colours + eyeliner at Bustle (lots of eye candy!)
Some beauty highlights/2011 Trends:
Pink Tartan: luminous, perfect skin with subtle, peach-coloured lips. Fresh!
Lida Baday: neutral glam - perfect look for every day!
Some beauty highlights/2011 Trends:
Pink Tartan: luminous, perfect skin with subtle, peach-coloured lips. Fresh!
Pink Tartan
Lida Baday: neutral glam - perfect look for every day!
Lida Baday
Smythe: Glowing skin and intense, exciting electric pink lips!
Smythe
Wayne Clark: Classic glamour - black liner, slight smokey eye with a neutral lip - all to complement the absolutely stunning gowns.
Wayne Clark
Please check out Fashion Magazine (images courtesy of!) and the LG Fashion Week website for full coverage and information pertaining to the shows!
Monday, October 18, 2010
Pearls are a Girls Best Friend?
Over the weekend I was reading Beauty Biz magazine, and came across an interesting article about the use of pearls in cosmetic products. Obviously, using a gemstone that is synonymous with lustre, glamour, and beauty is a great way to market a product, but what is the science behind the use of pearl in these products?
Pearls are created inside a mollusk with the addition of an irritant, and are the only gemstones to be created within a living animal. Historically, they have had many therapeutic uses, ranging from indigestion to longevity of life. They are composed of calcium carbonate and a protein called conchilion.
Calcium Carbonate: commonly used in cosmetic products, such as toothpaste (it is abrasive), as a calming agent (it is basic, neutralizing inflammation), and as a buffering agent.
Conchilion: unique protein, which, similar to calcium carbonate, is basic. The main components of this protein are the amino acids (building blocks of life) glycine, valine, leucine, lysine, and arginine. All of the components have their unique properties and purposes, but the following three seem to have the most profound roles...
Lysine: required for the formation of collagen
Valine: acts as a moisturizer
Glycine: reduces oxidative damage, and is required for protein synthesis
I'm looking forward to trying some products synthesized with the components of pearls. In addition to the therapeutic properties of the components, crushed pearl also adds lustre and can diminish imperfections on the surface of the skin.
Products containing pearl: Lancome La Laque Fever Lipshine Collection, Benefit Girl Meets Pearl Liquid Pearl for Face, La Mer The Illuminating Powder.
Pearls are created inside a mollusk with the addition of an irritant, and are the only gemstones to be created within a living animal. Historically, they have had many therapeutic uses, ranging from indigestion to longevity of life. They are composed of calcium carbonate and a protein called conchilion.
Calcium Carbonate: commonly used in cosmetic products, such as toothpaste (it is abrasive), as a calming agent (it is basic, neutralizing inflammation), and as a buffering agent.
Conchilion: unique protein, which, similar to calcium carbonate, is basic. The main components of this protein are the amino acids (building blocks of life) glycine, valine, leucine, lysine, and arginine. All of the components have their unique properties and purposes, but the following three seem to have the most profound roles...
Lysine: required for the formation of collagen
Valine: acts as a moisturizer
Glycine: reduces oxidative damage, and is required for protein synthesis
I'm looking forward to trying some products synthesized with the components of pearls. In addition to the therapeutic properties of the components, crushed pearl also adds lustre and can diminish imperfections on the surface of the skin.
Products containing pearl: Lancome La Laque Fever Lipshine Collection, Benefit Girl Meets Pearl Liquid Pearl for Face, La Mer The Illuminating Powder.
Friday, October 15, 2010
Product of the Week - MAC Pigment
MAC Pigment comes in an array of shades (34, plus many special editions!) and finishes (matte, frost, pearl, metal), and is a dependable product that can be tailored to deliver a soft wash of colour, or intensified to create a dramatic look. This product is extremely versatile (you can even mix it with clear nail polish to make a personalized colour!!!) and long-lasting.
What makes it so amazing? Well, it contains a variety of compounds that help to increase its longevity and enhance the product. Octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate is an ester that slows water loss, essentially creating a barrier between your skin and the product (making it long-lasting). It also contains, among other compounds, isostearyl neopentanoate, which acts as a lubricant, smooths the surface of application, and holds the pigment together. These two ingredients, along with a healthy dose of mica, results in a smooth, long-lasting colour.
My favourite shade of pigment right now is Heritage Rouge (although, sadly has been discontinued from the looks of it!), a deep burgundy that gives the perfect grunge-glam look that's hot for fall.
Cosmetics Info
MAC Cosmetics
What makes it so amazing? Well, it contains a variety of compounds that help to increase its longevity and enhance the product. Octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate is an ester that slows water loss, essentially creating a barrier between your skin and the product (making it long-lasting). It also contains, among other compounds, isostearyl neopentanoate, which acts as a lubricant, smooths the surface of application, and holds the pigment together. These two ingredients, along with a healthy dose of mica, results in a smooth, long-lasting colour.
My favourite shade of pigment right now is Heritage Rouge (although, sadly has been discontinued from the looks of it!), a deep burgundy that gives the perfect grunge-glam look that's hot for fall.
Cosmetics Info
MAC Cosmetics
Thursday, October 14, 2010
Hyalur-what?
Hyaluronic Acid, or Hyaluronan is one of the newer anti-ageing "miracle" ingredients on the beauty scene. But does anyone actually know what it's doing? How it works? Doubt it... so let me fill you in!
Hyaluronic acid is a biological polymer - a polymer that is found naturally within our bodies. It's found in all types of tissue, but is often concentrated around joints, in the umbilical cord, and in our extracellular matrix. Traditionally, this glycosaminoglycan has been used in medicine for treatment of rheumatoid arthritis, as it helps to restore flexibility and elasticity around the joints.
Essentially, it binds water in the extracellular matrix and holds cells together in a jelly-like consistency. This is why it's been utilized for so many cosmetic purposes! As a filler, it is bio-compatible (your body is unlikely to reject it), and plumps up at the site of injection. In other cosmetic products, such as moisturizers, anti-ageing treatments, even in cosmeceutical lipsticks and blushes, it acts to temporarily smooth and plump the applied surface.
Products with hyaluronic acid include: Hylaform Dermal Filler, Fusion Beauty Sculptdiva Blush, Biotherm Multi Recharge SPF 15 Moisturizer (my favourite!), and many, many more!!
Source: Struct Chem (2008) 19:697-717
Hyaluronic acid is a biological polymer - a polymer that is found naturally within our bodies. It's found in all types of tissue, but is often concentrated around joints, in the umbilical cord, and in our extracellular matrix. Traditionally, this glycosaminoglycan has been used in medicine for treatment of rheumatoid arthritis, as it helps to restore flexibility and elasticity around the joints.
Essentially, it binds water in the extracellular matrix and holds cells together in a jelly-like consistency. This is why it's been utilized for so many cosmetic purposes! As a filler, it is bio-compatible (your body is unlikely to reject it), and plumps up at the site of injection. In other cosmetic products, such as moisturizers, anti-ageing treatments, even in cosmeceutical lipsticks and blushes, it acts to temporarily smooth and plump the applied surface.
Products with hyaluronic acid include: Hylaform Dermal Filler, Fusion Beauty Sculptdiva Blush, Biotherm Multi Recharge SPF 15 Moisturizer (my favourite!), and many, many more!!
Source: Struct Chem (2008) 19:697-717
Wednesday, October 13, 2010
Organic, Luxurious, Affordable... and Canadian?!
Yes! You read that correctly. Consonant (www.consonantbody.com) is a fabulous Canadian beauty company that offers a completely organic (we're talking paraben, sulfate, and phthalate free!) product line.
Just an FYI: phthalates are used in everything from plastics (to make them more flexible and enhance their lifetime), flooring, adhesives and paint pigment. They're an environmental estrogen that accumulate in our fat cells over time.... Do you really want to be putting this stuff on your body?! NO!
I recently picked up the Organic Body Lotion and it is absolutely divine. Skin is silky, hydrated, and happy!
Moreover, Flare magazine (http://www.flare.com/) recently profiled Consonant's Ultra Firming Organic Eye Cream, touting its skin-firming benefits due to the addition of zinc. Zinc is a necessary participant in collagen production, is involved in cell proliferation (remember the Retinol post?), and is essential for the production of natural antioxidants and helps activate particular metalloproteinaises (protein based enzymes that contain a metal co-factor) in the removal of mutated cells. Overall - Zinc is wonderful!*
In Toronto, Consonant products are available at The Bay, and other leading independent retailers/salons. Check out their website for more info!
Just an FYI: phthalates are used in everything from plastics (to make them more flexible and enhance their lifetime), flooring, adhesives and paint pigment. They're an environmental estrogen that accumulate in our fat cells over time.... Do you really want to be putting this stuff on your body?! NO!
I recently picked up the Organic Body Lotion and it is absolutely divine. Skin is silky, hydrated, and happy!
Moreover, Flare magazine (http://www.flare.com/) recently profiled Consonant's Ultra Firming Organic Eye Cream, touting its skin-firming benefits due to the addition of zinc. Zinc is a necessary participant in collagen production, is involved in cell proliferation (remember the Retinol post?), and is essential for the production of natural antioxidants and helps activate particular metalloproteinaises (protein based enzymes that contain a metal co-factor) in the removal of mutated cells. Overall - Zinc is wonderful!*
In Toronto, Consonant products are available at The Bay, and other leading independent retailers/salons. Check out their website for more info!
Consonant Organic Body Lotion
*More about zinc and its healing ability at: http://www.bioskinbalm.com/zinc/
Monday, October 11, 2010
Prime Time
Primers are a great way to ensure that you achieve a flawless complexion - each and every day! My favourite is the original Smashbox Photo Finish, it's oil-free so won't cause breakouts, it lasts forever, and can even be worn without foundation for a matte, silky, sans-makeup look.
Why is it so fantastic? It's got a plethora of silicones in it - the primary ingredient being cyclomethicone. Silicones are too big of molecules to penetrate our skin cells, so therefore they form a uniform layer on top - explaining the longevity and lack of pore-clogging. Moreover, cyclomethicone formulations stay blended, accounting for the uniformity of the mixture!
Why is it so fantastic? It's got a plethora of silicones in it - the primary ingredient being cyclomethicone. Silicones are too big of molecules to penetrate our skin cells, so therefore they form a uniform layer on top - explaining the longevity and lack of pore-clogging. Moreover, cyclomethicone formulations stay blended, accounting for the uniformity of the mixture!
Wednesday, October 6, 2010
For the Love of OPI...
One of my favourite things about the return of fall - the luxurious, vampy nail colours. What I'm absolutely loving right now? OPI Suede Collection... luxe!!!
Tuesday, October 5, 2010
Retinol - The Ultimate in Skin Care
Most people are aware of the power that natural antioxidants have in replenishing and restoring our skin, and protecting it from external stressors such as pollution and the sun. These natural antioxidants - most commonly Vitamin A, C, and E, must be applied in an ideal formulation as to produce optimal results.
Enter: Retinol. A naturally occuring form of Vitamin A, and a compound which develops into retinoic acid. How does retinol work its magic? It readily penetrates our skin and aids in proper cellular function, speeds up cellular proliferation (or skin cell renewal), and increases collagen and hyaluronate production. The result? Smoother, clearer, softer skin, with significant decreases in wrinkles, photo-damage, acne, and scars.
As a devoted user of Retinol for many years, I completely stand behind the amazing ability of this naturally occurring antioxidant. It truly is the ultimate weapon in the quest for flawless skin.
Beware: In prescription or stronger OTC formulations, Retinol may cause irritation and slight inflammation until your skin is accustomed to the product. Also, it causes a slight photosensitivity, so be sure to slather on that SPF!
Enter: Retinol. A naturally occuring form of Vitamin A, and a compound which develops into retinoic acid. How does retinol work its magic? It readily penetrates our skin and aids in proper cellular function, speeds up cellular proliferation (or skin cell renewal), and increases collagen and hyaluronate production. The result? Smoother, clearer, softer skin, with significant decreases in wrinkles, photo-damage, acne, and scars.
As a devoted user of Retinol for many years, I completely stand behind the amazing ability of this naturally occurring antioxidant. It truly is the ultimate weapon in the quest for flawless skin.
Beware: In prescription or stronger OTC formulations, Retinol may cause irritation and slight inflammation until your skin is accustomed to the product. Also, it causes a slight photosensitivity, so be sure to slather on that SPF!
The chemical structure of retinol
J Drugs Dermatol 2008; 7(7) Supplement
Sperm Facial Treatment?
One of the new, hot innovations in anti-ageing treatments has definitely garnered headlines for being extremely provocative: the so-called "sperm" facial. The active protein is called spermidine, an essential growth factor in some bacteria which is thought to help stabilize the helical structure of DNA, as well as prevent the breakdown of collagen and muscle fibres when applied to the skin. Rest assured, however, spermidine was originally isolated from human semen (back in the 1950s!) but is also a predominant polyamine in our skin cells.
Researchers found that over time, the concentration of spermidine in your cells slowly decreases, and in studies, the application of spermidine to yeast, flies, worms, and human immune cells slowed this ageing, and actually had a rejuvenating effect on human cells.
The treatment is supplemented with an infared light stimulation, which allows for deeper penetration of the spermidine into the skin cells. As far as my research takes me, this treatment is most predominantly available in NYC.
Interested in learning more? Check out: "Nature Cell Biology 11, 1305-1314 (2009)"
Researchers found that over time, the concentration of spermidine in your cells slowly decreases, and in studies, the application of spermidine to yeast, flies, worms, and human immune cells slowed this ageing, and actually had a rejuvenating effect on human cells.
The treatment is supplemented with an infared light stimulation, which allows for deeper penetration of the spermidine into the skin cells. As far as my research takes me, this treatment is most predominantly available in NYC.
Interested in learning more? Check out: "Nature Cell Biology 11, 1305-1314 (2009)"
Product of the Week
L'Oreal Lineur Intense
This liner has been my go-to for approximately 8 years now. Why? It's long lasting, the brush-tip allows for superior control of thickness, shape, and contour of the line created, and it's great value.
Two polymers are included in the ingredient list: propylene glycol and acrylates copolymer. The latter, in particular, contributes to the staying power as it adds an elastic like covering, leading to flexibility so that the applied product doesn't become dry and flake off. Overall, amazing.
Welcome!
I am a recent chemistry graduate who has always had a strong penchant for cosmetics, and all beauty products. Using my knowledge of chemistry, I want to decipher what makes a product great, and also to have some fun highlighting new trends, innovations and beauty secrets. Enjoy! ;)
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